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Available in selected stores (0800 188884; £3.49/285g).Goose fat is fairly widely available thanks to its legendary powers over the roast potato.That leaves duck fat, a product that one always used to source from that duck-worshipping nation, France.Touring the Bath & West Show, however, I found Somerset Ducks Cuisine, an inspired farm producer whose duck sausages have become favourites among members of my very picky family.

So, if convinced of the wholesomeness of lard, let’s return to the gastronomic glories of lardo.Made in Tuscany, it is cured in salt with herbs, just as a pork leg for prosciutto, then pressed between slabs of marble to remove moisture.The result is a sliceable strip of aromatic fat, interspersed with a few tracings of rust-coloured meat.Because fat is a carrier of flavour, even a small amount is intensely delicious – nothing like the spreadable, bland, white pork lard that is used for roasting or making pastry.Buy it very thinly sliced, unless you can do so yourself, online from Richmond-based Italian food specialists Vallebona ( 020 8944 5665, or contact for stockists. Lardo joins a growing list of chic lards and drippings.

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